Tuesday, April 5, 2011

raspberry poppy seed tart

Well, after the purim failure, I was left with a mess of poppyseed filling. I thought about trying the same recipe again, armed with egg wash and new knowledge (the internet says you have tofold the edges of the cookies, not crimp) but ended up going with something else.

This is a raspberry poppy rustic tart.

The incredibly high seed-to-any-other-ingredient-ratio means that this tart is crunchy and nutty--like eating the tiniest tastiest gravel bits in a flaky pastry crust.

with raspberries.

Raspberry Poppy Tart
(adapted in parts from Smitten Kitchen)
Crust
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons sugar, divided
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3 tablespoons ice water
1 large egg yolk mixed with 2 tablespoons of water

Combine flour, 2 tbsp sugar, baking powder, and salt, in a large bowl. Cut in the cold butter, and cut with two knives or a pastry cutter, until you have pea sized pieces.

Sprinkle the dough with ice water and mix briefly. (Don't overmix, This is pastry.) Knead the dough once or twice to get it together. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about a half hour.

In the meantime, prepare your filling.

Filling
Combine 1/2 recipe of poppy seed filling with 1 cup of frozen raspberries and two tablespoons raspberry jam. Mix well.

Roll out the chilled dough into an 11-inch round.

Spread the filling in the center of the dough and gently fold the edges up over the top, covering the outer edge of the filling. Brush the top of the tart with the egg wash, and sprinkle the remaining sugar on top. For best results, freeze the tart before baking. It should take 3-4 hours to freeze solid.

Bake directly from the freezer, at 375 F for about 75 minutes. The crust will be golden brown.

Try to avoid drug tests, and don't forget to floss.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Tiny 'tashen Fail



From what I've read, it seems like hamantashen--the three cornered hat of a purim cookie--are often ornery. Either the dough is too stiff and dry, or too delicate to hold shape. If I did these again, I'd try folding the dough, and sealing it with a bit of egg wash. These tasted great, sweet and flaky, but I ran into trouble every step of the way.

The recipe I used, from Smitten Kitchen, asks the baker to grind the poppy seeds. In her recipe, Deb gave the seeds a whir in her coffee grinder, since she didn't have a spice grinder. I don't even have a coffee grinder. So I had a go with a mortar and pestle. After a few minutes of grinding and spilling seeds all over the counter and floor, I gave up and dumped the whole seeds in the simmering pan of syrup for the filling.


Then there's the dough. This dough took so long to come together that I'm sure I overworked it before I had the sense to simply bundle it in plastic wrap and let time and refrigeration pull the ingredients together.


The filling settled into caramel colored strata in the fridge, raisins at the bottom, butter just above that, poppyseeds in a thick thick layer at the top.

I folded the dough into strong points, and chilled the cookies before baking, but several of them exploded out into puffy pastry circles with small poppyseed pyramids, fused into sugary mounds, hot from the oven.





Sunday, March 20, 2011

(Barely) Irish Soda Bread

The irish soda bread that showed up at a staff meeting last week was a pale and dense crumbly sort of thing. It easily lasted through the meeting, and through the next day, and the next, sitting out on the conference room table.

This bastardized version of soda bread, made buttermilk and citrus zest and (well, why not) cranberries when I ran out of raisins, suffered no such sad fate.

Skillet Irish Soda Bread
adapted from the NYTimes, by way of Smitten Kitchen

1/4 cup salted butter, melted
2 cups all purpose flour
1 cup wheat flour
2/3 cup sugar
1 tbsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp baking soda
1 3/4 cup buttermilk
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup raisins
1/2 cup cranberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a(n at least 10 inch diameter) skillet with parchment paper. This skillet needs to go in the oven, so make sure the handle can take the temperature. Cast iron is best.

Combine flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, mix buttermilk, eggs, and half the melted butter (1/8 cup). Pour wet into dry and mix just until wet. Don't overmix. Add the raisins and cranberries, and stir to distribute the dried fruit.

Turn the batter into the lined skillet, and brush the top with the remaining melted butter. Bake for about 1 hour, until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, the top is golden brown and hard to the touch.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Cranberry Ginger Oatmeal Cookies

I've been reading about how to develop recipes for baking. Dianne Jacob suggests pulling up a number of trusted recipes for the basic type of good that you're trying to develop (bread, quick bread, cookie, cake, etc.) and then filling out a grid with the ingredients for each recipe. That way, you'll have the right ratios--leavening to acid, for example.

I tried that out this past week with a new recipe for Cranberry Ginger Oatmeal cookies, using recipes from Martha Stewart, Smitten Kitchen, and the Food Network.

Hot and crisp from the oven, cranberries and lemon dominate this cookie. A day after baking, the ginger peeks through. If I made these again, I'd kick in a bit more ginger and maybe some cloves.

To avoid spreading like this, refrigerate the dough before baking
Cranberry Ginger Oatmeal Cookies
wet
1 stick butter
2/3 cup brown sugar, packed
1 egg
1/2 tbsp vanilla
zest of 1 lemon

dry
1/2 cup white flour
1/4 cup white wheat flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ginger

finish
1.5 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup dried cranberries



Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. In a large bowl, combine butter and sugar. Beat in the egg, vanilla, and lemon. In a smaller bowl, mix the dry ingredients well. Add the dry to the wet, beating until incorporated.

Finish by adding rolled oats and cranberries (or any dried fruit bits. Apricot springs to mind as an interesting variation.) Mix until it looks vaguely homogeneous.

For the best results, refrigerate the dough for about 20 minutes before picking up and rolling out shooter marble sized spheres. Place the dough balls on parchment or foil-lined baking sheets and bake for 10-15 minutes, depending on how cold the dough is when you put it in the oven.

The cookies are done when the edges are golden brown. Don't be concerned if the middle still looks a bit less than firm. It'll solidify as they cool.

As with many cookies, if you store these in a closed container, the humidity will soften those perfect crisp edges. So these are best eaten the day of baking.



Sunday, February 27, 2011

Brown Butter Banana Bread



If you come across some enfeebled, spotty bananas, but you don't have time to throw down a quickbread then and there it's simple enough to toss them into a freezer. But always, always peel them first.

I haven't made banana bread in a while in part because the last time I did, I tried to use bananas that had been frozen in their skins. I made a valiant effort at separating the stringy black mess from the pale yellow mess, but in the end the whole thing smelled (and tasted) sadly of rot.

Happily, today was unlike that day.

Brown Butter Banana Bread
adapted from Simply Recipes

4 ripe bananas
1/3 cup butter
3/4 cup sugar
1 tbsp ground flax seeds
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Melt the butter in a saucepan or skillet. Once everything is liquid, reduce the heat and begin to stir, gently at first, and then with an increasing sense of urgency. The butter will lighten, and then darken, turning a nutty brown color.

Once it's brown, pour the butter out of the pan into a small bowl where it can cool until needed.

Mash the bananas in a large mixing bowl. Add the warm (but not hot) brown butter. Mix in sugar, vanilla and flax. Sprinkle the baking soda and salt on of the mixture and stir a few times. Add the flour, stirring just until incorporated.

Pour the thick batter into a baking pan (this will do a short bundt, 9 inch round, or a 4 x 8 inch loaf pan) and bake for about an hour. The cake is done when a knife inserted in the center pulls out clean.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Chocolate Peanut Butter Biscotti

I am strangely lazy when it comes to twice-baked goods. Give me fiddly little dough shapes to make, or chocolate dipped whathaveyou, and I'm happy to work away at it for a couple of unreasonably focused hours. But biscotti and shortbread both require a discomfiting combination of sporadic attention and accurate timing.



This biscotti isn't particularly traditional--I used both baking powder and soda, and the recipe doesn't have any ground nuts in it. What it does have is a deep chocolate flavor. (You can taste the peanut butter on the inhale of a bite, but it's not overpowering) And, importantly, this recipe withstood my haphazard baking rhythm.



Chocolate Peanut Butter Biscotti


Ingredients:
3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup chocolate peanut butter (or nutella, or regular peanut butter)
2 tablespoons cocoa powder
2 1/4 cup flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup chocolate chips

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Beat eggs until frothy. Add sugar. Add peanut butter in by hand mixing. Combine (sift together) flour, baking soda and powder and salt. Mix. Add chocolate chips.


Form the dough into two or three logs, and place them on a parchment paper covered baking sheet. Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes, then pull the sheet from the oven, and reduce the temperature to 200. Using a serrated knife, slice the logs into biscotti shaped pieces. This may be difficult. I got through it by pretending I was a jigsaw machine. Lay each piece on its side.

Bake again (at 300 now) for 10-15 minutes. Stay on the short end of the baking time on this and the next step to create biscotti that retains a softer center.

Pull the sheet from the oven, flip all the pieces and bake again for 10-15 minutes.

Done. These are best enjoyed with a hot beverage and a long dunk.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Simple Italian Cookies

I narrowly missed getting doored by two flower delivery vans on the way in to work this morning, so it must be valentine's day. In honor of the occasion, I pulled together a batch of simple italian cookies--sometimes called Italian Love Knots.

I usually refer to these as cookie-biscuits. The dough isn't very sweet, and the cookies are firm a little dry. They get their sweetness from a citrus glaze that dries to a hard finish. I've made the glaze with lemon juice and orange zest in the past, and that's what I recommend, but I went with orange juice for this glaze. When you include the zest, it'll be visible in the glaze.





Simple Italian Cookies

1/4 cup butter (salted), softened
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 tsp orange extract
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 egg
1 egg white
1 1/2 cups flour (all-purpose)
1 1/2 tsp baking powder

Glaze:
Lemon Juice
Powdered Sugar
the zest of one orange

Directions:
Preheat the Oven to 350 Degrees F.

Mix the butter, sugar and extracts. Add in the egg and egg white. In another bowl (or your measuring cup) mix the flour and baking powder. Add the dry to wet, and mix until the dough comes together--it'll look crumbly, but it'll come together in the next step.

Pick up shooter marble sized pieces of dough and roll them between your palms until you have a long snake of dough. Knot the dough in any manner you please (suggestions include: pretzel, knot, heart, spiral) and place on a lined baking sheet.

Bake for 8-10 minutes. The top will be light, and the bottom will be slightly browned.

For the Glaze- Start out with two cups of powdered sugar, and add lemon juice by the teaspoon, mixing thoroughly after each addition, until you get a runny glaze. Add orange zest and mix. Wait for the cookies to cool before dipping them if you want a thicker glaze layer. If you're fine with a thin layer, dip while hot.